Just days after returning from our epic southern USA road trip, I got itchy feet. Fall was in full swing and I wanted to experience the best Washington had to offer.
I knew the way to do that would be hiking and camping in North Cascades National Park.
North Cascades has quickly become my favourite hiking destination in Washington. The scenery leaves me flawed each time – picture dense forest, beautiful alpine lakes, and literally hundreds of glaciers. This national park is also just one hours drive from Anacortes, and a little over two hours from Seattle.
With next to no planning, Tom and I packed the Jeep and headed east for a few days in the great outdoors.
What we found was more incredible than I thought it would be. Hikes gave us front row seats to glacier carvings and the golden larches were bursting in colour. We camped in two of the most unique places I’ll ever get to pitch a tent. We walked the wooden boardwalks of a ‘western’ town and sipped local ciders and fresh hop IPAs.
Fall sure is a beauty to behold.
Hiking to Cascade Pass
Cascade Pass is a very popular summer hike, but we found few fellow hikers on a slightly damp October morning.
The hike is 7 miles round trip, gaining 1800ft in elevation. Reviews say “no other trail in the state delivers as much reward for the effort”. So I was sold.
Views from the parking lot are a great indicator of the journey to come. Before even beginning the hike we were face to face with Johannesburg Mountain, and surrounded by hanging glaciers.
The first 2.7 miles of the trail consists of more than 30 switchbacks through old growth forest, but while that sounds like a lot, it wasn’t too tough going. Light rain turned to snowfall as we ascended, which was a nice surprise this early in fall.
Once emerging from the switchbacks, it’s roughly one mile further to Cascade Pass. Even here, the scenery is nothing short of spectacular. And then I made it to the Pass, and realised I may never see anything better in my life.
At 5392ft, we looked into a wide, glacially-carved valley full of colour. Cascade Pass offers views of several impressive peaks and glaciers. The ridge from Johannesburg Mountain connects to Mixup Peak and Magic Mountain, in between which lies the Cache Glacier.
After taking a few triumphant photos, we found a scenic rocky overlook to chill and eat lunch. Several curious pikas and chipmunks approached, so it seems they get well fed by visitors (they had no such luck with us – please don’t feed wild animals!)
As we began back down the trail, we heard a huge crash – part of a hanging glacier broke away and crashed to the valley floor with a mighty boom. Truly a moment I don’t think I’ll forget.
Hike notes and further details. Keen hikers can continue on to Sahale Arm from Cascade Pass, which adds another 5 miles to the trip. Road access to the trailhead is unsealed, and might be tricky for lowered vehicles. No parking pass is required at the trailhead, but a backcountry permit is required to camp overnight in North Cascades National Park. Stop at a ranger station beforehand to acquire one.
Camping at Colonial Creek
With many campgrounds already closed for the winter, we arrived at Colonial Creek – a serene spot right on the lakefront.
We were lucky to nab the last available campsite for the day, all for the low price of zero dollars. The park stops collecting camp fees in off season, which is fine so long as you’re prepared to bring your own water, use a vault toilet and take your rubbish home with you.
The nearby jetty, just 50 ft from our campsite, was the perfect afternoon drinks location.
We pitched the tent, started a fire, and poured some red wine. My idea of a Saturday afternoon in the woods!
More info about camping in national parks.
Diablo Lake
I don’t think it’s possible to drive Highway 20 without stopping at the impressive Diablo Lake Overlook (mile post 132). Fun fact: its vibrant turquoise colour is due to the surrounding glaciers that grind rocks into a fine powder called glacial flour, which is then carried downstream into the lake.
I’ve canoed on the lake, as well as hiked the Diablo Lake Trail – but the view remains just as impressive as the first time I saw it.
Hiking Blue Lake Trail
I attempted this hike with my sister back in June, but we quickly got lost as snow covered the entire trail. And one of us fell through the snow and got stuck up to her thighs. Yes that ‘one of us’ was me…
Turns out, this hike is absolutely meant to be done in autumn. Why? Golden Larches.
The hike to Blue Lake is 4.4 miles round trip, and pretty easy going with an elevation gain of only 1050ft. But due to its location near Washington Pass, the lake is actually at 6254ft – so hikers are rewarded with that high alpine beauty without a hard slog.
The trail begins with a few boardwalks through the forest, before winding its way up the mountain. Once reaching the meadow, there’s spectacular sweeping views from here on in – of the Liberty Bell mountain group, Cutthroat Peak and Whistler Mountain. And that’s if you can take your eyes off the bright gold larches and deep red autumn trees.
Once I made it to the lake… just wow!! The colours were so intense, and the lake gleamed so bright under the sunshine that it cast shadows of the mountain across the water. Photos don’t even begin to do it justice.
Sitting by the shore of Blue Lake was the prettiest snack break I’ll ever have.
Hike notes and further details of the Blue Lake Trail.
Washington Pass
Not too far along Highway 20 from the Blue Lake trail head is Washington Pass Overlook (mile post 162). I highly recommend stopping here to take in views of Liberty Bell group from the lookout, and walking the short loop trail.
I swear these mountains look like an oil painting.
The trail is short and paved to the lookout, so it’s wheelchair and stroller friendly.
Western character in Winthrop
Our next stop was the little town of Winthrop, known as the gateway to the Old West.
Nestled in the beauty of Methow Valley, it’s certainly a town from another era. The footpaths are raised boardwalks, the shops and restaurants all have western-themed facades, and there’s even a wild west saloon (actually the oldest legal saloon in Washington State!)
And as we would soon discover, the town has quite the foodie scene. Definitely a destination for beer, wine and cider lovers, thanks to its proximity to a major agricultural region.
More about Winthrop coming soon!
Camping at Pearrygin Lake
After stumbling across the awesome Old Schoolhouse Brewery in Winthrop, we quickly decided to forgo a campsite dinner for burgers and beers. I am not made of stone, people.
Rather than find a campsite in town, we headed 10 minutes out of Winthrop to Pearrygin Lake. We wanted to be surrounded by nature, and this was just the spot. I was pretty stoked when we landed a basic tent site right on the lakefront. For just $25.
Bacon-egg sandwiches and coffee in the morning with these views beats any café brunch (and that says a lot coming from me!).
Falls Creek Falls
Keen to see more of the local area before we headed back home, we spent the next morning driving around the countryside.
Falls Creek Falls is a nice little spot, as it’s a very short trail to the waterfall viewpoint. It’s not the largest or most breathtaking of waterfalls, but definitely more fun if you take the steep trail to the right of the falls – you’ll arrive at an awesome drop off right beside the main part of the falls.
Those with the time and energy should continue along the trail, as it leads to another several miles of waterfall chasing.
Methow Valley Views
We drove the back roads in search of epic views, and found ourselves at the dead end of a dusty fire trail, up the side of a mountain. But our accidental destination was as good as any lookout.
After one more stop in Winthrop to grab a coffee and pastry from Rocking Horse Bakery, it was time to hit the road for home.
Any weekend in the North Cascades is a weekend well spent.
One thing’s for sure, I’m going to head east more often.
Interested in hiking and camping in North Cascades National Park?
Read about some of my other North Cascades hikes: Thornton Lakes Trail and Sauk Mountain.
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hiking and camping in North Cascades National Park
hiking and camping in North Cascades National Park
hiking and camping in North Cascades National Park
hiking and camping in North Cascades National Park